Kinder® Goat Breeders Association
Starting Your Own Herd
Congratulations on your choice of the Kinder goat! No doubt, by this point, you have read
an article or two explaining that Kinder goats are mid-sized, dual purpose (milk and meat)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Goals
Before you start, you will want to examine your own personal long term goals: what do you
want a Kinder goat to do for you? Since the Kinder is a dual purpose goat, consider where
your emphasis will be. That end goal will determine what choices you will make through this
developmental process. In addition to your long term goals, you will want to set a series of
short term goals as you progress, to act as guideposts for the development of your line(s).
Explained later are some possible short term goals you may wish to consider.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Available Information
The Kinder Goat Breeders Association has a Breed Standard, a Kinder Scorecard, and
registration information available through the central office. You can request copies of
articles that have appeared in Dairy Goat Journal (Jan - Feb, 1994), United Caprine News
(May, 1993), and the Pygmy Goat World (Sept., 1994).
Harvey Considine's book “Dairy Goats for Pleasure and Profit” contains a section on
Kinders, and it is an excellent reference for all kinds of goat questions. “The Illustrated
Standard of the Dairy Goat” by Nancy Lee Owen, and “Dairy Goat Judging Techniques” by
Harvey Considine and George W. Trimberger are also excellent resources that will help you
learn how to evaluate your goats.
These information sources will give you the essentials to help you make wise breeding
decisions as you build your Kinders. Your first Kinders, realistically, will not be perfect. You
will find good characteristics in each animal, but not any one of them will have it all. Begin
with the very best animals you can afford, and work up from there.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Your Starter Kit
If you are starting from scratch, your starter kit will consist of a registered Nubian doe and a
registered Pygmy buck. There are a few breeders who have begun successfully with a
Pygmy doe and a Nubian buck. The Association feels, however, that it is a safer procedure
to use the larger doe with the smaller buck. You may find it mystifying at first that the Pygmy
buck rarely has trouble breeding the tall does. They are determined and creative. Given a
slope, some uneven ground, a step down from a shelter, a log, or a pallet platform
judiciously placed, the job will usually be accomplished.
The Association recommends that your very first animals be tested for Caprine Arthritis
Encephalitis (CAE). It is also recommended that a regular annual testing program be
established to ensure that your herd remains free from CAE. If you wish further information
on this crippling disease, prevalent in many dairy goat and Pygmy goat herds, the KGBA
newsletter, the Kinder Communiqué' has published a number of excellent articles by
veterinarians discussing the problem in detail. You may wish to contact the KGBA Central
Office for copies of these issues.
The Nubian Doe
When looking for that ideal Nubian doe, she should be registered with the American Dairy
Goat Association (ADGA), the American Goat Society (AGS), or the Canadian Goat Society
(CGS), and be carefully selected for a good balance of dairy characteristics. Look for a
good udder, good milk production, a background of trouble-free kidding, and no genetic
problems such as abnormal teats, etc. Show does may be fine, but not all good does are
shown, and your financial outlay can vary considerably.
Cosmetically, you might want to look for bold color and long, pendulous ears hung close to
the face. Don't be disappointed, though, if those spots and long ears don't show up in your
first generation kids. The genes are there and may be coaxed out in later generations.
Your doe should carry herself gracefully on well-set, strong legs and feet. She should have
good width in both chest and escutcheon. Her depth of body should be tapered to gradually
increase from front to back, making room for internal organs and developing kids.
The Pygmy Buck
The second part of your starter kit is the Pygmy buck. You will need to have, or at least have
access to a buck registered with the National Pygmy Goat Association (NPGA), the American
Goat Society (AGS), or the Canadian Goat Society (CGS). He should have a sound body -
deep and broad, legs straight and well set, with good muscling and heavy bone, but not to
the extreme that his ease and grace of movement are restricted. Remember, he will need to
be flexible and agile to successfully breed the Nubian doe.
He need not be a show animal. Taller bucks may make more balanced Kinders. Since
Pygmies are only occasionally used for milk production, breeders tend to pay less attention
to teat abnormalities, so be sure you ask about those kinds of problems in the line you are
researching. Look also for ease of kidding, multiple kid production, and the ability of the
does in the line to successfully raise those litters.
Additionally, a buck that has a belt or mis-markings could help put some color in your Kinder
line. Another point you may want to consider — good temperaments are a plus and can run
in a line. Look for stable, friendly animals.
Alternate Ways to Begin
A number of breeders have found other creative ways to get started. It is sometimes
possible to lease a Nubian doe (make sure you have a written lease agreement). Nubian
breeders may be willing to breed first fresheners to Pygmy bucks in return for the
guaranteed purchase of the resulting kids.
You may choose to start a step ahead and begin your herd with purchased registered
Kinder stock. It is, of course, possible to enter in on a higher generation level if you like, but
you would be missing the excitement and reward of developing a Kinder line from scratch.
Another alternative that we hope will be possible to use in the future is artificial insemination.
However you have decided to approach it, now your first Kinder kids are on the way. Your
excitement builds as you begin to look at the possibilities for your next step. This is a good
place to explain the Kinder Goat Generation Chart so that you will understand how to move
beyond these first generation kids.
Kinder Goat Recieves Certificate of:
MERIT: Nubian + Pygmy = 1st Generation
MERIT: 1st Generation + 1 -5 Generation = 2nd Generation
MERIT: 2nd Generation + 2 - 5 Generation = 3rd Generation
MERIT: 3rd Generation + 3 - 5 Generation = 4th Generation
REGISTRATION: 4th Generation + 4 - 5 Generation = 5th Generation
REGISTRATION: 5th Generation and up
As you can see, the breeding of a 1st generation Kinder to another 1st produces a 2nd
Generation goat; a second bred to another second produces a 3rd, and so on. As you
follow the chart you will also see that with a mixed generation breeding the resulting progeny
will always go back to the generation following the lesser generation parent (1st to 4th would
produce 2nd, 3rd to 5th would produce 4th.) Keep in mind that improved conformation and
production is more important than stepping up generations.
Now it is an important decision time. You have your 1st generation Kinder kids before you.
What next? First of all, the KGBA strongly recommends that you begin right here with careful
record-keeping. Keep track of all your breedings and the full results - good and bad. It is just
as important to keep track of the faults and problems as it is the strong points and
successes. Note details of each kidding from length of gestation and number of kids to
speed and ease of delivery, and the response of the doe to the new kids.
Weigh and measure each kid as soon as possible, and consider filling out the Association's
research forms. You, personally, will benefit later on by being able to track exactly what is
happening with your breeding program. Also, the Association as a whole will benefit from the
accumulation of information that will paint a clear picture of the progress of the Kinder goat
as a breed.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Breeding
Observe your kid crop carefully, identifying their strengths, and be willing to acknowledge
their weaknesses. It takes practice to look past the obvious "cuteness" and really see if
there is good rear width, sound legs and feet, broad chests, proportionate body and leg
length, "dairy character", etc. Remember the original goals you established. Choose those
kids as "keepers" that will move you in that direction. Be especially careful in choosing your
bucks. The buck will prove to be the cornerstone of your herd. It is important to choose him
both for the strengths in his background and for those he exhibits. You can be somewhat
more lenient with your doe choices, but use the same basic guidelines.
As you set up your breeding plans, don't worry about trying to improve everything all at
once. Now is the time to realistically establish a few short-term goals for improvement. What
do you see in the 1st generation kids that you want to enhance? Avoid? Be careful that you
avoid matching goats exhibiting the same weaknesses (i.e. both with weak pasterns will quite
likely produce more weak pasterns, etc.). A good plan is to chart each animals' strengths
and weaknesses and then chart your breeding plans on paper before proceeding.
Do you see a fault that is serious enough to demand immediate correction? What
combination can you make to accomplish that? The idea is to attempt to bring each
generation a little closer to the ideal, one small step at a time. In trying to make too many
improvements all at once, it is too easy to lose ground in important areas. Excessive
concern about ears and color can also lead you off track. It will be to your benefit to carefully
discipline yourself to keep looking past the cosmetics to the more practical characteristics of
sound conformation and improved production. Try to overcome the desire to hurry and climb
the generation step. Making sure that you have sound animals with which to make the next
move is of primary importance. Don't compromise, in fact, insist on culling any animal that
exhibits traits that are disqualifying or undesirable.
If you are unwilling or unable to keep more than one buck and only a few does, you may
want to see if you can work in conjunction with other breeders to share two or more
unrelated bucks. Taking your does to another farm to be bred can be inconvenient, but it is
a good way to keep your gene pool widened as long as you have compatible herd health
practices.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Inbreeding, Linebreeding, and Outcrossing
When you plan your breedings, you will want to inbreed (the breeding together of close
relatives such as sire/dam, son/daughter, brother/sister) only with great caution. Good traits
and bad can both be exaggerated greatly.
Careful Linebreeding (the breeding together of more distant relatives) can be used to
enhance and stabilize your best characteristics while helping you to predict outcomes.
Outcrossing (the breeding of two unrelated animals) will widen your gene pool – giving you
more to work with, but continuous outcrossing will just keep you guessing as to what results
to expect.
Have you reached any of those short term goals you set? Is it time to establish a few more?
Is your herd developing in a balanced way? Participation in shows can be a great aid to you
in learning just how well you are doing. Much valuable knowledge can be gained by looking
at other Kinders and talking with other breeders. If you have the opportunity to use a Herd
Evaluation Service you will find it an invaluable tool that should give you an objective rating
on each individual animal. You will also find that evaluators are interested in learning about
Kinders as well.
Above all, enjoy the development process. Don't be discouraged by occasional set-backs.
Relax and take a good look at those loveable kids. Have a talk with your gentle little milker.
Give a hug to your boisterous buck. You will find that to meet a Kinder goat is to love a
Kinder goat!!!
an article or two explaining that Kinder goats are mid-sized, dual purpose (milk and meat)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Goals
Before you start, you will want to examine your own personal long term goals: what do you
want a Kinder goat to do for you? Since the Kinder is a dual purpose goat, consider where
your emphasis will be. That end goal will determine what choices you will make through this
developmental process. In addition to your long term goals, you will want to set a series of
short term goals as you progress, to act as guideposts for the development of your line(s).
Explained later are some possible short term goals you may wish to consider.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Available Information
The Kinder Goat Breeders Association has a Breed Standard, a Kinder Scorecard, and
registration information available through the central office. You can request copies of
articles that have appeared in Dairy Goat Journal (Jan - Feb, 1994), United Caprine News
(May, 1993), and the Pygmy Goat World (Sept., 1994).
Harvey Considine's book “Dairy Goats for Pleasure and Profit” contains a section on
Kinders, and it is an excellent reference for all kinds of goat questions. “The Illustrated
Standard of the Dairy Goat” by Nancy Lee Owen, and “Dairy Goat Judging Techniques” by
Harvey Considine and George W. Trimberger are also excellent resources that will help you
learn how to evaluate your goats.
These information sources will give you the essentials to help you make wise breeding
decisions as you build your Kinders. Your first Kinders, realistically, will not be perfect. You
will find good characteristics in each animal, but not any one of them will have it all. Begin
with the very best animals you can afford, and work up from there.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Your Starter Kit
If you are starting from scratch, your starter kit will consist of a registered Nubian doe and a
registered Pygmy buck. There are a few breeders who have begun successfully with a
Pygmy doe and a Nubian buck. The Association feels, however, that it is a safer procedure
to use the larger doe with the smaller buck. You may find it mystifying at first that the Pygmy
buck rarely has trouble breeding the tall does. They are determined and creative. Given a
slope, some uneven ground, a step down from a shelter, a log, or a pallet platform
judiciously placed, the job will usually be accomplished.
The Association recommends that your very first animals be tested for Caprine Arthritis
Encephalitis (CAE). It is also recommended that a regular annual testing program be
established to ensure that your herd remains free from CAE. If you wish further information
on this crippling disease, prevalent in many dairy goat and Pygmy goat herds, the KGBA
newsletter, the Kinder Communiqué' has published a number of excellent articles by
veterinarians discussing the problem in detail. You may wish to contact the KGBA Central
Office for copies of these issues.
The Nubian Doe
When looking for that ideal Nubian doe, she should be registered with the American Dairy
Goat Association (ADGA), the American Goat Society (AGS), or the Canadian Goat Society
(CGS), and be carefully selected for a good balance of dairy characteristics. Look for a
good udder, good milk production, a background of trouble-free kidding, and no genetic
problems such as abnormal teats, etc. Show does may be fine, but not all good does are
shown, and your financial outlay can vary considerably.
Cosmetically, you might want to look for bold color and long, pendulous ears hung close to
the face. Don't be disappointed, though, if those spots and long ears don't show up in your
first generation kids. The genes are there and may be coaxed out in later generations.
Your doe should carry herself gracefully on well-set, strong legs and feet. She should have
good width in both chest and escutcheon. Her depth of body should be tapered to gradually
increase from front to back, making room for internal organs and developing kids.
The Pygmy Buck
The second part of your starter kit is the Pygmy buck. You will need to have, or at least have
access to a buck registered with the National Pygmy Goat Association (NPGA), the American
Goat Society (AGS), or the Canadian Goat Society (CGS). He should have a sound body -
deep and broad, legs straight and well set, with good muscling and heavy bone, but not to
the extreme that his ease and grace of movement are restricted. Remember, he will need to
be flexible and agile to successfully breed the Nubian doe.
He need not be a show animal. Taller bucks may make more balanced Kinders. Since
Pygmies are only occasionally used for milk production, breeders tend to pay less attention
to teat abnormalities, so be sure you ask about those kinds of problems in the line you are
researching. Look also for ease of kidding, multiple kid production, and the ability of the
does in the line to successfully raise those litters.
Additionally, a buck that has a belt or mis-markings could help put some color in your Kinder
line. Another point you may want to consider — good temperaments are a plus and can run
in a line. Look for stable, friendly animals.
Alternate Ways to Begin
A number of breeders have found other creative ways to get started. It is sometimes
possible to lease a Nubian doe (make sure you have a written lease agreement). Nubian
breeders may be willing to breed first fresheners to Pygmy bucks in return for the
guaranteed purchase of the resulting kids.
You may choose to start a step ahead and begin your herd with purchased registered
Kinder stock. It is, of course, possible to enter in on a higher generation level if you like, but
you would be missing the excitement and reward of developing a Kinder line from scratch.
Another alternative that we hope will be possible to use in the future is artificial insemination.
However you have decided to approach it, now your first Kinder kids are on the way. Your
excitement builds as you begin to look at the possibilities for your next step. This is a good
place to explain the Kinder Goat Generation Chart so that you will understand how to move
beyond these first generation kids.
Kinder Goat Recieves Certificate of:
MERIT: Nubian + Pygmy = 1st Generation
MERIT: 1st Generation + 1 -5 Generation = 2nd Generation
MERIT: 2nd Generation + 2 - 5 Generation = 3rd Generation
MERIT: 3rd Generation + 3 - 5 Generation = 4th Generation
REGISTRATION: 4th Generation + 4 - 5 Generation = 5th Generation
REGISTRATION: 5th Generation and up
As you can see, the breeding of a 1st generation Kinder to another 1st produces a 2nd
Generation goat; a second bred to another second produces a 3rd, and so on. As you
follow the chart you will also see that with a mixed generation breeding the resulting progeny
will always go back to the generation following the lesser generation parent (1st to 4th would
produce 2nd, 3rd to 5th would produce 4th.) Keep in mind that improved conformation and
production is more important than stepping up generations.
Now it is an important decision time. You have your 1st generation Kinder kids before you.
What next? First of all, the KGBA strongly recommends that you begin right here with careful
record-keeping. Keep track of all your breedings and the full results - good and bad. It is just
as important to keep track of the faults and problems as it is the strong points and
successes. Note details of each kidding from length of gestation and number of kids to
speed and ease of delivery, and the response of the doe to the new kids.
Weigh and measure each kid as soon as possible, and consider filling out the Association's
research forms. You, personally, will benefit later on by being able to track exactly what is
happening with your breeding program. Also, the Association as a whole will benefit from the
accumulation of information that will paint a clear picture of the progress of the Kinder goat
as a breed.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Breeding
Observe your kid crop carefully, identifying their strengths, and be willing to acknowledge
their weaknesses. It takes practice to look past the obvious "cuteness" and really see if
there is good rear width, sound legs and feet, broad chests, proportionate body and leg
length, "dairy character", etc. Remember the original goals you established. Choose those
kids as "keepers" that will move you in that direction. Be especially careful in choosing your
bucks. The buck will prove to be the cornerstone of your herd. It is important to choose him
both for the strengths in his background and for those he exhibits. You can be somewhat
more lenient with your doe choices, but use the same basic guidelines.
As you set up your breeding plans, don't worry about trying to improve everything all at
once. Now is the time to realistically establish a few short-term goals for improvement. What
do you see in the 1st generation kids that you want to enhance? Avoid? Be careful that you
avoid matching goats exhibiting the same weaknesses (i.e. both with weak pasterns will quite
likely produce more weak pasterns, etc.). A good plan is to chart each animals' strengths
and weaknesses and then chart your breeding plans on paper before proceeding.
Do you see a fault that is serious enough to demand immediate correction? What
combination can you make to accomplish that? The idea is to attempt to bring each
generation a little closer to the ideal, one small step at a time. In trying to make too many
improvements all at once, it is too easy to lose ground in important areas. Excessive
concern about ears and color can also lead you off track. It will be to your benefit to carefully
discipline yourself to keep looking past the cosmetics to the more practical characteristics of
sound conformation and improved production. Try to overcome the desire to hurry and climb
the generation step. Making sure that you have sound animals with which to make the next
move is of primary importance. Don't compromise, in fact, insist on culling any animal that
exhibits traits that are disqualifying or undesirable.
If you are unwilling or unable to keep more than one buck and only a few does, you may
want to see if you can work in conjunction with other breeders to share two or more
unrelated bucks. Taking your does to another farm to be bred can be inconvenient, but it is
a good way to keep your gene pool widened as long as you have compatible herd health
practices.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Inbreeding, Linebreeding, and Outcrossing
When you plan your breedings, you will want to inbreed (the breeding together of close
relatives such as sire/dam, son/daughter, brother/sister) only with great caution. Good traits
and bad can both be exaggerated greatly.
Careful Linebreeding (the breeding together of more distant relatives) can be used to
enhance and stabilize your best characteristics while helping you to predict outcomes.
Outcrossing (the breeding of two unrelated animals) will widen your gene pool – giving you
more to work with, but continuous outcrossing will just keep you guessing as to what results
to expect.
Have you reached any of those short term goals you set? Is it time to establish a few more?
Is your herd developing in a balanced way? Participation in shows can be a great aid to you
in learning just how well you are doing. Much valuable knowledge can be gained by looking
at other Kinders and talking with other breeders. If you have the opportunity to use a Herd
Evaluation Service you will find it an invaluable tool that should give you an objective rating
on each individual animal. You will also find that evaluators are interested in learning about
Kinders as well.
Above all, enjoy the development process. Don't be discouraged by occasional set-backs.
Relax and take a good look at those loveable kids. Have a talk with your gentle little milker.
Give a hug to your boisterous buck. You will find that to meet a Kinder goat is to love a
Kinder goat!!!
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